Restricted Access
No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag) have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!
The land above the crag is now designated open access land.
Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid.
There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully.
Rockfax Description
Fine climbing that is sustained and well protected. Start in the back of the zawn behind a large fallen block, near the base of a diagonal crack as for The Viper. Climb through a bulge to reach a crack. Traverse right for a few metres to reach a groove and climb this to a small ledge. Continue up the steep corner-crack above until it gets tough. Dig deep and make some scary moves right until you are below a steep wall. Go up this on better holds to a small overhang and much needed gear. Pull through the overlap using the crack. Undercut right to gain the base of the main corner, which is followed more easily to the top. © Rockfax
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales E3's , Trad climbs for sport climbers , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Alex's Wales ticklist , James' Summer Ticklist , E is for Easy... Right? , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , North Wales To Do List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| cpbarnes | 20 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: On Muir's gear for most of the way. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: On Muir's gear for most of the way. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Rhoscolyn
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The Sun
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Rhoscolyn)