Dates: 15 February to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
This crag has historically been used as a nest site for both ravens and peregrines. Currently neither are beleived to be nesting but if you do see either of these birds on or near the crag displaying nesting behaviour please contact access@thebmc.co.uk
Rockfax Description
Direct and with some choice climbing. Unfortunately the top pitch gathers lichen and may need cleaning (best accomplished after climbing Totalitarian). The original initial pitch is now heavily vegetated making a start up the first pitch of Totalitarian necessary.
1) 5a, 18m. Pitch 1 of Totalitarian.
2) 5c, 32m. Move right and then up to a short overhang-capped corner. Exit the corner on its right side to reach a ramp that leads to a small ledge. Move up a slab to a prominent groove that is followed to a junction with the Communist Convert traverse. Follow this to its belay at a spike.
3) 6a, 18m. Head back left and up to below the roof. Climb up leftwards to the overhang and pull over onto the headwall (peg). Finish up the wall, first to the right and then straight up to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
There is a new thread and peg belay after the 1st pitch. There is a new peg on the top pitch. It is arguably better to do 1st pitch of Totalitarian then traverse right to belay.
Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , Turbo-Punter's Tradification
User | Date | Notes | ||
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joe s | 19 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Thank you to the previous team for cleaning the top pitches! We made a start at pulling the vegetation off pitch 1 but whether or not this is a good thing or not is hard to tell! Pitch 1 would definitely benefit from more sod tossing. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Thank you to the previous team for cleaning the top pitches! We made a start at pulling the vegetation off pitch 1 but whether or not this is a good thing or not is hard to tell! Pitch 1 would definitely benefit from more sod tossing. |
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fatboyblim | 15 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: cleaned pitches 2&3 on abseil. tat on pegs at bottom of pitch 2 needs replacing. superb varied climbing in an awesome setting. GET ON IT WHILE ITS CLEAN!!! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: cleaned pitches 2&3 on abseil. tat on pegs at bottom of pitch 2 needs replacing. superb varied climbing in an awesome setting. GET ON IT WHILE ITS CLEAN!!! |
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Grade: E3 6a ***
(Gimmer Crag)