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The tree above the Middlefell Buttress descent has now fallen: early November 21. It is lodged in the gully below. The remaining timber has been cleared. The blocks behind the tree are used as an abseil point into the gully. They may be weakened by the demise of the tree. Caution advised in using the blocks. It is possible to scamble down this descent, but it is loose and serious.
A significant rockfall from the split block on the normal descent has meant that a large block and oak tree which formed part of the descent route through its trickiest section are now gone. The descent (which was already awkward and had resulted in several bad accidents over the years) is now significantly more difficult and exposed. A great deal of care will be needed if attempting this descent now and alternative descents are probably better either by abseil or walking to the top of the crag, heading right and coming down around the side of East Raven Crag. 2018
2019 Update: Due to rockfall the traditional Split Blocks descent route can no longer be recommended. An abseil descent has been established. Details are as follows, guidebook references are to the definitive Langdale (2013) and Lake District Rock (2015).
The Langdale guide has photodiagrams on pages 153 and 160 that show the traditional Split Blocks descent. In Lake District Rock this descent is shown on the photodiagrams on pages 69 and 70. On the Revelation Area view in the definitive guide (page 160), a skull and crossbones symbol will be seen above the finish of Kneewrecker Chimney (route 24). In Lake District Rock (page 70) the symbol is an exclamation mark and Kneewrecker Chimney is route 11. These symbols mark the start of the even more unsafe scrambling descent warned about in these guides and it is now exactly where the abseil station is located. Likewise on the main frontal view of the crag, these symbols will be seen above the line marking the traditional descent route. To find the abseil station the general instruction is; From the top of the main buttress head up and generally rightwards for a few metres (vague path) and the abseil strop/station will be seen around a huge flake-block. A 30m abseil takes you to easy ground. However, this abseil can be done on a single 50m rope to reach ledges at 25m but care is required not to go past these and run off the end of the rope – tie knots in the ends of your rope!
Rockfax Description
A wandering but reasonable climb that has a steep section on pitch 2. Start 4m right of Bilberry Buttress.
1) 17m. Move up to and climb a chimney/wide crack to the belay on a ledge shared with Bilberry Buttress.
2) 22m. Move left to below a corner. Climb easily to the steep corner and climb it with difficulty to a good ledge and belay.
3) 19m. Move up rightwards on the sloping ramp (past the crack of Bilberry Buttress) to a corner. Climb the corner a short way, then move left and then up past a large block to gain a ledge. Move right to a belay at a tree. Descend left (looking out). © Rockfax
Ticklists
Lake District Multipitch Climbing
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Jameskelly | 14 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: First wet lead | ||
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βeta: First wet lead |
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| FallingBrick | 22 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: There a jammed wire on the third pitch which makes a welcome runner. A no 5 DMM cam is very helpful to protect the second as they ascend to the oak tree ledge! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: There a jammed wire on the third pitch which makes a welcome runner. A no 5 DMM cam is very helpful to protect the second as they ascend to the oak tree ledge! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Raven Crag (Langdale)
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Gillercombe Buttress
Grade: S 4a ***
(Gillercombe)