Rockfax Description
A good alternative to the more famous Steger route. The climbing is varied.
To start, follow the ledge which runs around the base of Punta Emma to the far left edge, then scramble up scree to reach the face by a flared corner. Some parties choose to avoid the first four pitches of the climb and, instead, climb the long rightwards ramp of the Steger route.
1) IV+, 30m. Climb the corner-crack then follow a short vegetated corner left to a stance below a long corner.
2) V-, 25m. Follow the corner with some technical moves in the lower section until this eases just below the top of the corner.
3) IV, 40m. Continue up the corner then exit right before climbing another corner past a loose block. Follow a continuation crack to a belay close to the arete.
4) V-, 30m. Step easily right then climb towards a black flared corner. Climb this with technical climbing then move left to belay below a niche.
5) IV, 20m. Climb direct to the niche, exit it left then follow a vegetated ramp left to a good stance by a flake.
6) V-, 20m. Ascend direct then right, avoiding a long overhang, then make a difficult move steeply back left to a ledge.
7) IV+, 50m. Follow a short corner slightly left to a ledge then follow a chimney direct to a spike belay.
8) II, 25m. Continue direct on easy, but looser, rock to a niche.
9) II, 50m. Climb the black wall above the niche then continue easily following the loose gully.
10-12) III, 200m. Pick your way through the loose rock, heading in the vague direction of Rifugio Re Alberto, passing curious mushroom-like choss towers on the way to the summit. © Rockfax
F. Bernard and G. Mas? Dari 1929.
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Grade: V- ***
(Piz Ciavazes)