12m. Following the fan of branching cracks that start to the right of the main crack of Tear. Cross the main diagonal crack of SW Diagonal at a broken section and follow a larger vertical crack to the ledge of the main horizontal break. From the ledge step slightly right, climb straight up using the largest crack. Well protected after the first 4m.

Ken Johnson 1963.

Ticklists

Glen Nevis starred - HVS and below

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User Date Notes
Cobra_Head 10 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: You're quite high up, on not so great holds, before there is any gear. Also, the landing wouldn't be very nice. we top roped it for this reason, and Im glad we did.
Show beta
βeta: You're quite high up, on not so great holds, before there is any gear. Also, the landing wouldn't be very nice. we top roped it for this reason, and Im glad we did.
Emile.swain 17 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: First VS trad lead single pitch; Perfect for practicing for those long multi pitch HS alt leads yet to do. Quite hard to find decent gear on first section, and eventually found decent foot position so as to faff place if something bomber in the horizontal crack. Then did more of the same. Good practice for finding stable positions to place gear and move up. Honestly technically not hard climb. Excellent climb. Also, did this on top rope 26+ years ago on top rope in walking boots! With outward bound. Lols.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First VS trad lead single pitch; Perfect for practicing for those long multi pitch HS alt leads yet to do. Quite hard to find decent gear on first section, and eventually found decent foot position so as to faff place if something bomber in the horizontal crack. Then did more of the same. Good practice for finding stable positions to place gear and move up. Honestly technically not hard climb. Excellent climb. Also, did this on top rope 26+ years ago on top rope in walking boots! With outward bound. Lols.

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High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 33
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Central Buttress (Summer)

Grade: VS ***
(Beinn Eighe)

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