8 pitches. A fine ridge climb on good rock especially if one continues to the top of the Mont Neiglier (recommended). There are four gendarmes on the Pte. André ridge. Climb the first one by a dièdre/couloir on the crest: III+; descend from the crest and climb the second gendarme: III; continue along the ridge, cross a gap and descend a chimney on the R. III-; traverse an easy step and climb the third gendarme by a crack near the crest on the L. side: III+; descend R. to a shoulder, then move L. to the next gap: II+; climb the fourth gendarme by a steep 12m slab followed by a chimney on the L.: III; descend to the next gap by moving somewhat R.; continue along the ridge and climb a series of steps: II, to the summit.
Descend steep, friable rocks turning several teeth by dropping down to the L. (N.) to the deep gap of the Brêche André. From here, climb the West Ridge to the summit of Mt Neiglier (2789m). Descend the S.W. couloir.

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Route of Interest
West couloir

Grade: AD ***
(Cime de Gelas)

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