Rockfax Description
Another great route up the wall - the flake on the first pitch is a classic. Start by scrambling up the rampline from below Piloto. It is best to rack up from below here as the ledge where the route starts is not that spacious.
1) 6a, 30m. From just below the thin corner of Jose Manuel Alaiz, climb up and left to gain the base of the flake and swarm up this to the belay.
2) 4c, 15m. Move out left until it is possible to climb easily up before traversing back right to a belay directly above the stance you just left.
3) 6a+, 30m. Move up and left to gain the crack/groove. Climb this to a belay on the tree above.
4) 5a, 30m. Climb the friction slab boldly up and left to easier ground and the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Brilliant sustained crack climbing. Well protected
(french grades)
P1 - Follow flake to stance (6a, 30m) ***
P2 - Hard friction climbing (bolted) (Hard 6a, 15m)
P3 - Stunning corner, looks harder than it is. Crux at the end. Belay at the tree (6a+, 30m) ***
P4 - Short finger crack, followed by easy slab (V+, 30m)

Despite the bolts on P2, a whole set of nuts and a varied set of cams are needed.

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