Rockfax Description
Another classic route which combines chimney, face and arete climbing. Generally on good rock - this is one of the more popular routes in the group.
Start to the right of the gully between Odla di Cisles and Sass di Mesdi, and follow a gully right up scree to a stance just below a grassy saddle.
1) IV, 45m. Move left from the base to enter a chimney, and climb this to belay on a chockstone.
2) IV-, 50m. Continue up the chimney to the top, then make moves left, passing through two successive grooves, to a stance below and left of a large yellow niche.
3) IV-, 40m. Cross left over the arete and then climb close to the edge of this before moves left lead to a stance below a niche.
4) IV, 45m. Climb a crack left of the niche then follow a slab back right to a pegged stance.
5) III+, 40m. Move left into a chimney-gully and climb this back right to reach a sloping ledge.
6) III, 30m. Cross the ledge right then climb a crack. Continue right to a stance right of a large flake.
7) IV, 25m. Continue right then climb a slanting crack in the same line to a stance by a small pillar.
8) IV-, 35m. Move up and right to a grassy ledge, then climb vegetated rock direct to the base of a yellow chimney.
9) IV-, 40m. Climb the chimney direct then follow the gully above leftwards to a stance by a hole.
10) II, 45m. Take a direct line up easy-angled slabs to the ridge.
11) II, 60m. Follow the ridge easily left to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Another classic route which combines chimney, face and arete climbing. Generally on good rock - this is one of the more popular routes in the group.
Start to the right of the gully between Odla di Cisles and Sass di Mesdi, and follow a gully right up scree to a stance just below a grassy saddle.
1) IV, 45m. Move left from the base to enter a chimney, and climb this to belay on a chockstone.
2) IV-, 50m. Continue up the chimney to the top, then make moves left, passing through two successive grooves, to a stance below and left of a large yellow niche.
3) IV-, 40m. Cross left over the arete and then climb close to the edge of this before moves left lead to a stance below a niche.
4) IV, 45m. Climb a crack left of the niche then follow a slab back right to a pegged stance.
5) III+, 40m. Move left into a chimney-gully and climb this back right to reach a sloping ledge.
6) III, 30m. Cross the ledge right then climb a crack. Continue right to a stance right of a large flake.
7) IV, 25m. Continue right then climb a slanting crack in the same line to a stance by a small pillar.
8) IV-, 35m. Move up and right to a grassy ledge, then climb vegetated rock direct to the base of a yellow chimney.
9) IV-, 40m. Climb the chimney direct then follow the gully above leftwards to a stance by a hole.
10) II, 45m. Take a direct line up easy-angled slabs to the ridge.
11) II, 60m. Follow the ridge easily left to the summit.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
FrankieMac | 10 Oct, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: We found route finding challenging - especially on easier pitches where the climbing line is less obvious. The Italian topos (M. Bernardi) can be v helpful. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: We found route finding challenging - especially on easier pitches where the climbing line is less obvious. The Italian topos (M. Bernardi) can be v helpful. |
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Grade: IV ***
(Monte Popena Basso)