Climbs 21
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 183m a.s.l
Faces S
Climbing the lovely arête of route 6 © RockWest
A small crag giving enjoyable sport routes in the trees with a pleasant sunny outlook. This 10-12m high south-facing walls are sheltered from the wind and climbing is usually possible throughout the year. Despite cleaning, some of the blocks are suspect so take care! All routes have double bolt lower-offs.
From the east (Chester etc.): Come off the A55 expressway at Llanddulas (junction 23). Turn right at the roundabout by the filling station and then immediately left towards Old Colwyn (A547). Follow the road for 1 mile to just before the crest of the hill. Turn left up Highlands Road and park on the left where it levels out and becomes wider just after the fork right into Tan y Craig road (between the 2 limestone walls).
From the west (Llandudno etc.): Come off the A55 expressway at Old Colwyn (junction 22). Turn right under the expressway and soon turn left at the roundabout towards Llanddulas / Abergele (A547). After about 1.5 miles and after crest of the hill, turn right up Highlands Road and park on the left where it levels out and becomes wider just after the fork right into Tan y Craig road (between the two limestone walls).
Walk up the lane on the opposite side of the road next to the bungalow 'Cartrefle' to come out on to Tan y Craig Road. Turn left and after 50 metres head right through wrought iron gates on a signposted public footpath through Ty Ucha farm. Go through the gate in the bottom of the farmyard and follow the wall around to the right to a metal gate. Follow the public footpath for about 300m to just before a wall and ladder stile then take a path right up to the crag. The access path arrives at the crag under the jutting overhangs of the route “The Gowling”.
Do not, under any circumstances, try and approach the cliff from the top. This is private land over which there is no public access. Access should only be along the public right of way that passes the base of the cliff, past Ty Ucha Farm. See the BMC RAD for full details.
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