Javu P4. English tech grade 6c.
The wall left of The Groove at the back of the alcove, starting as high as you can reach. There are two sequences used. The original way moves out left to use a good looking edge (after matching on the first edge you can reach) and is a bit harder at f7B. Going straight up with right hand to poor high edge (avoiding the match and hold out left) actually makes the problem a little easier, around f7A+.
The wall left of The Groove at the back of the alcove, starting as high as you can reach. There are two sequences used. The original way moves out left to use a good looking edge (after matching on the first edge you can reach) and is a bit harder at f7B. Going straight up with right hand to poor high edge (avoiding the match and hold out left) actually makes the problem a little easier, around f7A+.
Ticklists
Jason Maddick's Dartmoor Top Problems
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Guidebooks for Manaton Rocks
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Route of Interest
The Cream Traverse
Grade: f7A+ ***
(Hound Tor)