The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.
A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely. Please take a discrete approach to climbing in the area which periodically attracts negative attention through tombstoning and the resulting injuries and rescues. Climbing and DWS are clearly different and permitted here, but can be caught up in media stories about tombstoning, so make an effort to keep a low profile so as not to encourage members of the public to have a go.
For safety reasons, there is no public access to the military ranges east of Lulworth Cove (which are used for live firing), other than on days when the ranges are open due to firing not taking place and even then only the marked path can be used. This means that no climbing can be accessed within the ranges at any time as it would necessitate walking off of the marked path.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.
Rockfax Description
6b, S0. A real marmite line - some will love it, others not! At low tide, traverse across to the left corner of the arch. Graunch up the greasy chimney to join Horny Lil' Devil. © Rockfax
FSA. Damian Cook, who else! 1990s.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing | 18 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: One of the greatest routes of our times, a must for any aspiring masochist who lusts for more and more thrutch...or something like that... | βeta? | |
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βeta: One of the greatest routes of our times, a must for any aspiring masochist who lusts for more and more thrutch...or something like that... |
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steve taylor | 20 Aug, 2003 |
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βeta: I believe the word he may have used was "fantastic" | βeta? | |
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βeta: I believe the word he may have used was "fantastic" |
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Grade: E3 6a ***
(Cave Hole)