Rockfax Description
A popular classic taking a line up the disjointed grooves on the left side of the central section of the face. There are better routes to the right but this is still a good introduction to the cliff. The route is well bolted and sees plenty of traffic. Start left of the toe of the buttress at a right-trending groove.1) 4+, 40m. Climb the ramp rightwards past a cave to a ledge.2) 5+, 35m. Trend left to a groove and up this to a tree. The crux is harder than anything else on the climb but is easily friggable.3) 4+, 35m. Climb the groove above then the pillar on the right.4) 4+, 35m. Trend left then follow cracks to a niche.5) 5+, 50m. Traverse right across the face then climb a groove eventually passing an old stance to an easier finish © Rockfax
FA. Juan Carrillo, Mariano Cantabella 1970s 1975.
ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50 , Costa B , Costa Blanca 2022
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Steve Woollard | 19 Dec, 2023 |
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βeta: Local blog gives it as 5+,6a+,4+,5+ 6a, but this seems a bit generous ? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Local blog gives it as 5+,6a+,4+,5+ 6a, but this seems a bit generous ? |
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Mike Shamash | 30 Jan, 2013 |
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βeta: Great route ... there maybe a 6a move on it as local guide says. but 5+ is what I'd give it. Its one of the most popular routes on the crag - so I'd advise people to buy the local guide (or look at someone elses) - there are about 100 routes on the main face. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route ... there maybe a 6a move on it as local guide says. but 5+ is what I'd give it. Its one of the most popular routes on the crag - so I'd advise people to buy the local guide (or look at someone elses) - there are about 100 routes on the main face. |
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john yates | 16 Dec, 2006 |
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βeta: Agree there is no belay on top of pitch five and thi and the last one are easily run together. the rib on pitch three is over to the right and not the left as described. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Agree there is no belay on top of pitch five and thi and the last one are easily run together. the rib on pitch three is over to the right and not the left as described. |
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liam | 2 Nov, 2006 |
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βeta: Fantastic route very well bolted. The last 2 pitches must have been combined cos the 2nd to last belay isnt there. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fantastic route very well bolted. The last 2 pitches must have been combined cos the 2nd to last belay isnt there. |
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Swig | 5 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: Good route and very well bolted. Couldn't find a belay at the end of pitch 5. Ran P5 and P6 together. The locals ahead of us did the same. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good route and very well bolted. Couldn't find a belay at the end of pitch 5. Ran P5 and P6 together. The locals ahead of us did the same. |
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Grade: 5c ***
(La Panocha)