The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.
In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end
19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.
Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag safer, it has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.
Reason: Nesting Birds
House martins sometimes nest on various routes on Main Wall - please avoid any routes with nests on whilst the birds are in residence.
Rockfax Description
The main arete gives good, well-positioned climbing on its right-hand side finishing up the crack at the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Can be climbed "a cheval" with no use of the crack to the right.
FA. Gary Gibson 2001.
Peak limestone north graded list - sport , The Horseshoe Top 15 Challenge , Horseshoe Star Quality
User | Date | Notes | ||
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nickcanute | 20 Nov, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: This route uses the arete, moves onto the left side of the arete then back again. The crack is Knight Rider HVS 5b (now f5+) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: This route uses the arete, moves onto the left side of the arete then back again. The crack is Knight Rider HVS 5b (now f5+) |
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AndyRogers | 2 Dec, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Both variations are worthwhile. The crak offering big moves on huge jugs. The arete has 4 times the holds and better clipping positions but requires a bit more technique. Both seem about 6a. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Both variations are worthwhile. The crak offering big moves on huge jugs. The arete has 4 times the holds and better clipping positions but requires a bit more technique. Both seem about 6a. |
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Faye Hine | 21 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Used the crack. Top seems impossible without crack | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Used the crack. Top seems impossible without crack |
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Fraser kid | 8 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: I used the crack, so sue me! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I used the crack, so sue me! |
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jb2006 | 13 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Varied and worth the star if you use the crack (Knight Rider?) but not if you take the arete direct | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Varied and worth the star if you use the crack (Knight Rider?) but not if you take the arete direct |
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Albie | 30 May, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: There appears to be much confusion about the actual route here. Personally I went for that right hand crack , and I considered that to be plenty tough enough. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: There appears to be much confusion about the actual route here. Personally I went for that right hand crack , and I considered that to be plenty tough enough. |
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Dan-gerMouse | 5 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Surely not, there are holds on the edge of the arete that you could use of course! 6a, reasonable climbing at its grade | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Surely not, there are holds on the edge of the arete that you could use of course! 6a, reasonable climbing at its grade |
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Chris the Tall | 17 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Avoiding the crack on the right (as mentioned in the guide) requires discipline and blinkers and is far harder than 6a. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Avoiding the crack on the right (as mentioned in the guide) requires discipline and blinkers and is far harder than 6a. |
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MeMeMe | 3 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not a good route, very unsatisfying somehow. Fiend is right, the rock crystals are the best bit about it. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Not a good route, very unsatisfying somehow. Fiend is right, the rock crystals are the best bit about it. |
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Grade: 6a ***
(Harpur Hill Quarry)