Restricted Access

Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged!  The routes affected are also pretty poor!

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a  seasonal restriction "....  due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face.  As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’,  ‘Horus’,  and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".

The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT  that they  "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying". 

No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st. 

36m.

Rockfax Description
An enjoyable climb that can be split into two pitches. Begin up the groove that leads to a pillar, follow this as it narrows to an arete and finish with care. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This takes the narrow right-hand pillar of the gully. Variations are possible. Climb the left-hand groove and gain the pillar front. Continue up the pillar until it narrows to an arete. Finish rightwards taking care with the rock.

J Talbot R Corbett 1962.

Ticklists

Gower S-HVS *+ , Orange Spot Gower , Gower Peninsula - Jeremy Talbot's recommended climbs , Gower Classic Rock , Gower

Feedback

User Date Notes
clownboy 22 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Plenty of loose blocks near the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Plenty of loose blocks near the top.
clownboy 3 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: We removed 2 large block's (and many smaller ones) from the top of ridge much less loose now. (29/06/19)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We removed 2 large block's (and many smaller ones) from the top of ridge much less loose now. (29/06/19)

Logged Ascents

114 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Fall Bay to Mewslade

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 16
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Zig zag crack

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Craig Cwm)

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