Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged! The routes affected are also pretty poor!
Dates: 1 May to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a seasonal restriction ".... due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face. As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’, ‘Horus’, and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".
The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT that they "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying".
No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st.
Rockfax Description
Best done as a DWS as it relies on rusty old pegs for the lead. Climb the steep wall to below the roof, power around this to finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The steep line right of Charlie Don't Surf. Much better as a DWS, about f7a+ S0. When done on gear it is reliant on some pretty crusty old pegs.
Climb an awkward narrow crack that widens to a large fissure. Climb the overhanging wall direct to a block overhang. Climb this at its centre and take the steep wall above, old PRs.
Andy Sharp, Pete Lewis 1984.
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(Fall Bay to Mewslade)