Restricted Access

Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged!  The routes affected are also pretty poor!

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a  seasonal restriction "....  due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face.  As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’,  ‘Horus’,  and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".

The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT  that they  "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying". 

No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st. 

40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5a, 10m. The left-hand crack-line of Cima at the back of the gully leads up with a struggle to a belay in the recess.
2) 5b, 25m. Climb the wall on the right, then traverse rightwards across the side wall of the gully to finish up South Pillar Rib. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
5a, 4a

Ticklists

Gower S-HVS *+ , Orange Spot Gower , Gower Peninsula - Jeremy Talbot's recommended climbs , But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone? , Gower Classic Rock , Gower

Feedback

User Date Notes
tomlake 25 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Very slippy and difficult to protect start, careful of the seaweed! Rope-work on the second pitch is also fairly tricky.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very slippy and difficult to protect start, careful of the seaweed! Rope-work on the second pitch is also fairly tricky.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Fall Bay to Mewslade

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 3
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Assassin

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Third Sister to Zulu Zawn)

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