The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
FA. Colin Knowles, Ian Hegarty 27/Jul/2010.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Colin Knowles | 5 May |
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βeta: Behind the dead ash tree is a very nice hazel tree which we abbed off. | ||
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βeta: Behind the dead ash tree is a very nice hazel tree which we abbed off. |
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MattyDredge | 13 Nov, 2022 |
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βeta: The guide says plenty of gear. Thats true, however gear and reliable gear in solid rock are different things. The abseil is off of a dead tree. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The guide says plenty of gear. Thats true, however gear and reliable gear in solid rock are different things. The abseil is off of a dead tree. |
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runwildjohn | 1 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: This used to be a pleasant route but now has significant stretches of loose blocks. The way off has become an unpleasant bramble/thorn/buddleia fest. I won’t be doing it again! | ||
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βeta: This used to be a pleasant route but now has significant stretches of loose blocks. The way off has become an unpleasant bramble/thorn/buddleia fest. I won’t be doing it again! |
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desmondc | 26 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Cannot walk off the top, impassable undergrowth. Abseiled down the chute to the right of the route. Tricky first 5m, then the rest is fine. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Cannot walk off the top, impassable undergrowth. Abseiled down the chute to the right of the route. Tricky first 5m, then the rest is fine. |
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