Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
Poor, but the easiest way up the tower, and one of the earliest limestone routes in the Peak. From the col at the back of the tower, traverse left and climb the loose grassy wall. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Poor - but the easiest way up the tower and one of the earliest limestone routes in the Peak. From the col at the back of the tower step on to the left (north) face and climb the loose grassy wall staying right of the deep crack at the top. The exposure at the top of the pitch and the view makes up for the gardening required. Easiest abseil is back down the route from the chain.
FA. Samuel Turner 1903 (aid from a top rope) FFA. Seigfreid Herford 1914.
Ticklists
Peak Rock/1/ The 1st Peak District Tigers. , Siegfried Herford’s First Ascents
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
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Robin Hood's Right-hand Buttress Direct
Grade: HS 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)