An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from Natural Resources Wales (NRW) and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.
While NRW manage the North Side of the River, the South Side is privately owned and the land owner has stated that up to 6 local climbers may climb on the south side of the river. We ask climbers to respect this and to help improve relations by keeping the area tidy.
Rockfax Description
The hanging arete. A short power-packed pitch with an airy finish. It is best to climb up the first two bolts of The De-Regulators to miss out a homemade hanger low down - the rest of the bolts are fine. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The route originally started up the wall directly below the arete, past the home made hanger. It now makes more sense to climb it as described below.
Climb the 1st 2 bolts of The De-Regulators to a no hands rest under the arete. Climb directly up the arete via sustained and powerful undercutting, making big moves via two crucial glued-on holds. Finish on same belay as the De-Regulators.
Gary Gibson.
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Grade: 7c ***
(Bowen's Parlour)