Climbs 7
Rocktype Gneiss
Faces W
Damskii on Little Dancer. © Damskii
Lovely Gneiss crag for lower level climbers who want to feel some exposure. The rock is grippy and quick to dry with 7 nice lines from 5 up to 7a+. The crag is located up a rather steep and if wet, slippery slope. The belay station is reasonably sloped, so the belayer may want to anchor into the first bolt to minimise risk. There are two faces to the crag in the layout of an open book. The left buttress features 3 routes around 5+ all offering excellent views, the left most route (Little Dancer) gives some excellent exposure as well. The right buttress comprises 4 routes from 5+ to 7a+.
There is a small car park (3-4 cars) on the A832 at the start of the Slaterdale path (100 meters uphill from the entrance to Tollie farm which has a no through road sign). Take the obvious path South down the valley and cross 2 streams (the first may not be obvious if the weather has been good) so that it flow on your right, follow the valley south for around 1km keeping an eye on the crags to your left, the crag is up a 50m slope covered in vegetation and there is no path to the base, so it isnt immediatly easy to spot.
Parking ref 57.74932 -5.597271
None.
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