Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
Interesting ground with a variety of climbing styles from jamming to bridging. Start as for Boo Boo.
1) 4c, 13m. Move up the broken ground to the base of a crack. Climb this to parallel cracks in the flake and onto a ledge.
2) 4a, 11m. Move up and then step slightly down and right to below a steep entrance to a groove. Climb this to a ledge just left of the pinnacle.
3) 5a, 24m. Move right below the pinnacle to its right side and follow the ramp up and right to where it gains the slabby crest of the buttress. Once on the arete, follow the edge to the top. © Rockfax
User | Date | Notes | ||
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LouisGuest | 21 Apr |
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βeta: Vegetated 3rd pitch would recommend going behind the pinnacle not below and around it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Vegetated 3rd pitch would recommend going behind the pinnacle not below and around it. |
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climbingrev | 8 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Either the 2nd belay ledge is now a wasps nest, or I was just unlucky! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Either the 2nd belay ledge is now a wasps nest, or I was just unlucky! |
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agour | 28 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Rockfax picture is wrong for the belays. Just use the description | βeta? | |
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βeta: Rockfax picture is wrong for the belays. Just use the description |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Carreg Wastad)