Restricted Access

Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.

 

Warning

Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid  this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive! 

Rockfax Description
Interesting ground with a variety of climbing styles from jamming to bridging. Start as for Boo Boo.
1) 4c, 13m. Move up the broken ground to the base of a crack. Climb this to parallel cracks in the flake and onto a ledge.
2) 4a, 11m. Move up and then step slightly down and right to below a steep entrance to a groove. Climb this to a ledge just left of the pinnacle.
3) 5a, 24m. Move right below the pinnacle to its right side and follow the ramp up and right to where it gains the slabby crest of the buttress. Once on the arete, follow the edge to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Routes for MCI

Feedback

User Date Notes
LouisGuest 21 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Vegetated 3rd pitch would recommend going behind the pinnacle not below and around it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Vegetated 3rd pitch would recommend going behind the pinnacle not below and around it.
climbingrev 8 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Either the 2nd belay ledge is now a wasps nest, or I was just unlucky!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Either the 2nd belay ledge is now a wasps nest, or I was just unlucky!
agour 28 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax picture is wrong for the belays. Just use the description
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax picture is wrong for the belays. Just use the description

Logged Ascents

37 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 3
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Shadow Wall

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Carreg Wastad)

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