Restricted Access
Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
Part 2 of the Welsh 'Blood, Sweat and Tears' trilogy. 'Sweat' has some sustained climbing on the first pitch. Start below a groove on the left side of the bay. This is just above and about 10m left of the base of the Yogi arete.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb up broken ground to the small groove. Follow this, then layback over a bulge before moving left onto the steep wall. Follow better holds to where you can step left to a poor peg. Go left up a ramp to an overhang at its end. Pull over and continue to a grass ledge and belay.
2) 4a, 14m. The easy slab above is climbed direct. © Rockfax
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| geoff b | 19 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Excellent small half-nut under the peg. | ||
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βeta: Excellent small half-nut under the peg. |
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| No? Yes! | 9 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Like others I found very little to back up poor peg/move out of the groove. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Like others I found very little to back up poor peg/move out of the groove. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
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S S Special
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Clogwyn y Grochan)