Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:
Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.
Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.
Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.
Rockfax Description
The open corner on the left of the buttress gives a great outing on good holds with plenty of solid runners after a vegetated start. At the top break, move out left to escape. There may be an abseil station in place; if not, walk round. If you thought it a push-over, consider Aplomb as a suitable extension. © Rockfax
FA. H.Drasdo, G.Mansell 1955.
World Graded List , Low grade quality Cheedale Trad , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Maoweee | 13 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Currently no ab station in place. The walk down is unpleasant but very manageable. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Currently no ab station in place. The walk down is unpleasant but very manageable. |
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orangesmartie61 | 26 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Disappointingly vegetated for a 2/3 star route; now cleaner. Thanks to the team who left a sling and screwgate for the block belay/abseil. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Disappointingly vegetated for a 2/3 star route; now cleaner. Thanks to the team who left a sling and screwgate for the block belay/abseil. |
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Green_t | 26 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: No fixed belay/ab point at the top- we scrambled left up to a tree with ab tat | βeta? | |
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βeta: No fixed belay/ab point at the top- we scrambled left up to a tree with ab tat |
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Summit Sense | 25 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Jun 2020 scramble up left 7m into the trees to find the abseil tat | βeta? | |
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βeta: Jun 2020 scramble up left 7m into the trees to find the abseil tat |
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Ropeboy | 11 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: A good(ish) route and an ideal warm up for the other routes on the crag. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A good(ish) route and an ideal warm up for the other routes on the crag. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Bamford Edge)