The crag is south facing for the most part and quick drying, especially with a bit of sea breeze. However, it's worth bearing in mind that traversing along the platform at the base of the crag (needed to get to most routes) can be exciting in anything other than calm seas. The traverse is generally accessible 3 hours either side of high tide for most of the crag and the base of Terrier's Tooth and Bishop's Buttress for slightly longer, although these times are significantly reduced during neap tides. During high tides or when big seas are running, it is also possible to abseil in to the upper pitches of several routes.
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies to all routes on Bishop's Buttress - from Lacertion to The Mitre inclusive (route 82, page 153 to route 14, page 159 in the 2017 Climber's Club guidebook).
Routes within Zawn Rinny (Consolation Climb to Shark Alley) are also restricted during the same period, but the Zawn Rinny descent for the western end of Chair Ladder is fine to use.
Rockfax Description
An awkward but protectable first pitch. Start at the left side of the large slab, as for The Gingerbread Crack.
1) 4c, 26m. Take the slab to a right-leading crack that is followed to below overhangs. Traverse left to below the chimney and pull past a block with difficulty to less pressing ground. Continue to a ledge and belay on the right.
2) 30m. The long chimney/crack is followed all the way to the top of the cliff. © Rockfax
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Chimnastics | 22 Apr, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: The slab leading to the overhang is 100% guano in places. Avoid if you have issues with that kind of thing. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The slab leading to the overhang is 100% guano in places. Avoid if you have issues with that kind of thing. |
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Grade: VS 4b ***
(Cornakey Cliff)