Rockfax Description
A reasonable route although the rock is a little friable on the top pitch. Start at a small pedestal.
1) 4c, 11m. Move up and left along a rampline, until you can climb direct up a faint groove to just below a sloping ledge. Step left on the ledge and belay in the corner.
2) 5b, 18m. Ascend the sustained corner-crack/flake, moving left at its top with difficulty and belay in the holly tree above.
3) 4c, 35m. A bit scrappy. Move right and go diagonally up and right crossing Brute 33 to a rib that overlooks Unicorn. Continue up the rib weaving your way around any difficulties. © Rockfax
"A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Clogwyn y Tarw (The Gribin Facet))