95m, 4 pitches.
Varied and interesting climbing. Start below a big wedged block about 10 m right of Eight Days a Week.
P1, 20 m, 5b. Gain the block via slabs on the right. Climb the thin crack above, surmount the overlap and continue to a belay on a block in the crevasse and/or a sling round the tip of the crevasse flake.
P2, 40 m, 5b. Step off the tip of the flake to a crack and follow it rightwards up the slab. At the steepening, move left on flakes and climb about half way up the left-hand groove above. Swing out left on a jug and climb the wall to a ledge. Gain the left hand groove above again escaping left just below the top to good holds round the rib that allow the ledge above to be gained (or, harder, continue directly up the groove to the ledge). Ribs, slabs and an easy arete then lead to a belay on a spike, the block above and a medium/large cam up and right.
P3, 20 m, -. A heather link. Step up to the cam and move right to a heathery groove. Bridge up and step right on to a cleaned rock shelf. Follow the maximum amount of rock in diagonal steps to the right right passing the last stance on Eight Days a Week to a belay at the base of the corner above and right.
P4, 15 m, 4c. Climb just right of the corner to a ledge. Start the crack above awkwardly. It soon eases and leads to the summit ridge. Follow the ridge easily to spike belays where it levels.
P1, 20 m, 5b. Gain the block via slabs on the right. Climb the thin crack above, surmount the overlap and continue to a belay on a block in the crevasse and/or a sling round the tip of the crevasse flake.
P2, 40 m, 5b. Step off the tip of the flake to a crack and follow it rightwards up the slab. At the steepening, move left on flakes and climb about half way up the left-hand groove above. Swing out left on a jug and climb the wall to a ledge. Gain the left hand groove above again escaping left just below the top to good holds round the rib that allow the ledge above to be gained (or, harder, continue directly up the groove to the ledge). Ribs, slabs and an easy arete then lead to a belay on a spike, the block above and a medium/large cam up and right.
P3, 20 m, -. A heather link. Step up to the cam and move right to a heathery groove. Bridge up and step right on to a cleaned rock shelf. Follow the maximum amount of rock in diagonal steps to the right right passing the last stance on Eight Days a Week to a belay at the base of the corner above and right.
P4, 15 m, 4c. Climb just right of the corner to a ledge. Start the crack above awkwardly. It soon eases and leads to the summit ridge. Follow the ridge easily to spike belays where it levels.
Harold Walmsley and Chris Calow 20/Sep/2021.
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Route of Interest
Californian Arete
Grade: E1 4c ***
(California)