Restricted Access

Access to Cademan Rocks for climbing has not been formalised at the current time and could be withdrawn in future if issues continue. At all times practice a minimal impact approach and leave the area in a better condition than you found it. It is important that visiting climbers respect the area, keep a low profile, behave well and cultivate a positive image to other users, local residents and landowners alike. 

  • Parking is very limited and poor parking damages verges and obstructs traffic – both of which give climbers a bad name with locals. Follow the detailed parking guidance in the ‘Parking and Approach’ section below and don’t be part of the problem.
  • If there is nowhere to park without contributing to these issues, please don’t squeeze in regardless – help to preserve long term access and go elsewhere or come back another day.  
  • Litter has noticeably increased in the woods in recent times which is a very obvious negative impact of increased visitor numbers. Do your bit to look after the woods and as well as taking your own litter home with you, pick up other litter you see. The BMC Hills 2 Oceans campaign is providing free litter pickers and bags to help climbers clear up their local crags – click here to get yours.
  • Do not climb over dry stone walls to access any boulders – it will damage the wall and annoy landowners. Take a longer approach if necessary to avoid this.
  • Overnight camping at the rocks or nearby in vehicles is very noticeable and likely to cause friction with local residents and landowners so please don’t do it.
3m. Starting as for Tron, wack a heel on and attempt to establish on the two smaller crimps on the face of the overhang that are unused by any other climb. Obtain the poorest pinch on the lip (just to the right of the crimp in Tron), and Haul for the good nob on the tip.

It goes without saying that all the good holds are out and must be avoided at all costs.

Feedback

User Date Notes
harrison 12 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Some others: Start as for Flynn, pull up to a small LH crimp on the face, and again for the crimp on the lip used on Tron, RH to higher crimp rock left. The same without matching the rh start jug, and then the same again but skipping the small crimp. Jump start - hold the crimp on the lip of Tron and jump to the higher RH crimp, the bigger the swing the better you are at rock climbing. Finish left. Start as for Tron, RH in the jug below the lip, LH over to the crimp and link into Flynn or finish left
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some others: Start as for Flynn, pull up to a small LH crimp on the face, and again for the crimp on the lip used on Tron, RH to higher crimp rock left. The same without matching the rh start jug, and then the same again but skipping the small crimp. Jump start - hold the crimp on the lip of Tron and jump to the higher RH crimp, the bigger the swing the better you are at rock climbing. Finish left. Start as for Tron, RH in the jug below the lip, LH over to the crimp and link into Flynn or finish left

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
High f6C
Mid f6C
Low f6C
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Eucharist

Grade: f6C+ ***
(Altar Stones)

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