The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A truly fantastic pitch. Sustained, well protected and with a pressing crux move high on the wall. Start below the very thin line of cracks in a slight depression on the upper wall and just right of the rope sling at the midway break on Mother Africa. Move up the wall on good holds to a narrow ledge. Harder climbing past white blotches gains the horizontal break above. Sustained climbing through the bulge and up the line of thin cracks leads past a jug (but without much respite) to another bulge. A hard couple of moves up and right past a peg gain a thread and the final short wall. © Rockfax
FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 12/Jun/1983.
Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Trad climbs for sport climbers , West Country Climbs , Swanage wild pumpfests , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , SW Climbs - Swanage , Dorset weekender , Ultimate E5 ticklist , Soft Touches , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012)
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Michael Porter | 7 Oct, 2023 |
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βeta: Replaced the thread at the top, although the rock it’s in looks questionable. Good gear not far away though. Peg seems good. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Replaced the thread at the top, although the rock it’s in looks questionable. Good gear not far away though. Peg seems good. |
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Climber_Bill | 25 Mar, 2007 |
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βeta: E4 or E5? Many a pint drunk discussing this. Harder than Mother Africa, well more sustained really. Who cares, it is a fantastic pitch, as good as any E4/E5 in the country. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: E4 or E5? Many a pint drunk discussing this. Harder than Mother Africa, well more sustained really. Who cares, it is a fantastic pitch, as good as any E4/E5 in the country. |
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Si Witcher | 8 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: Great gear and 1 tricky move. One of the best E4s around. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Great gear and 1 tricky move. One of the best E4s around. |
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(Fisherman's Ledge)