Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
An intimidating route with lots of exposure on its second pitch. Start under the perfect groove on the edge of the bay.
1) 4c, 15m. Climb the groove to a hanging stance at the faultline.
2) 5b, 18m. Move up to the roofs then make an airy traverse left to the arete which is then followed to the top. Intimidating. © Rockfax
FA. P.Holden, Howard Lancashire 31/Mar/1975.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ClimbingAlex | 25 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Didn't find it at the time, but there is a stake at the top. From the big boulder directly above the finish, head at 10 o'clock for approx 10-15m to the bushes. Ended up belaying off the hollow sounding boulder & a gorse bush root. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Didn't find it at the time, but there is a stake at the top. From the big boulder directly above the finish, head at 10 o'clock for approx 10-15m to the bushes. Ended up belaying off the hollow sounding boulder & a gorse bush root. |
||||
| adambwalls | 3 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Couldn't find the belay stake at the top, used one round to the right. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Couldn't find the belay stake at the top, used one round to the right. |
||||
| ian bryant | 17 Sep, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: nice route, worthy of a star, with very "amenable" climbing! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: nice route, worthy of a star, with very "amenable" climbing! |
||||
| psicobloc | 7 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good moves but some what temporary rock on the second pitch | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Good moves but some what temporary rock on the second pitch |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Traverse of the Gods
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)