60m, 2 pitches.
An adventurous outing up a less travelled part of the buttress. Rock quality improves after the first 10m. Starts 5m right of the large earthy rightwards diagonal break taken by Wormlands.
1) 4c, 40m. Climb the wall on poor rock for 10m. Cross easy slabs to reach a groove system on the left. (Rock improves from here). Climb grooves until a ledge appears on the right (good runners). From here continue up the groove system to reach the leftwards diagonal faultline above. Step right under a small nose and climb an awkward short shallow corner to reach a good belay.
2) 4c, 20m. Trend initially right then straight up to the base of a prominent left-facing shallow corner (belay possible 3m left). Climb the corner, or its arête, trending right near the top to the headwall, which is climbed to the right of two metal plates to the exit of choice.
1) 4c, 40m. Climb the wall on poor rock for 10m. Cross easy slabs to reach a groove system on the left. (Rock improves from here). Climb grooves until a ledge appears on the right (good runners). From here continue up the groove system to reach the leftwards diagonal faultline above. Step right under a small nose and climb an awkward short shallow corner to reach a good belay.
2) 4c, 20m. Trend initially right then straight up to the base of a prominent left-facing shallow corner (belay possible 3m left). Climb the corner, or its arête, trending right near the top to the headwall, which is climbed to the right of two metal plates to the exit of choice.
David Radley, Colin Knowles 16/May/2009.
Ticklists
CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| jamieevans | 6 Feb, 2020 |
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βeta: Can ab from the tree on 50's. Just. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Can ab from the tree on 50's. Just. |
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| FerClimbs | 19 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Needs rock and vegetation cleaning but it is a good route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Needs rock and vegetation cleaning but it is a good route. |
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Route of Interest
Suspense
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))