Climbs 7
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 1399m a.s.l
Faces S
Up at the top! © DaCat
Crag features
Beautiful face and incredible views but very widely spaced bolts, in some places very disconcerting. Would take a few nuts and slings next time to be more happy on the multi pitches. Highly recommend the Via Ferrata, one of the two best ones I have ever been on.
Be wary of the grades on this crag they are all quite low for the difficulty of the climbs.
-Update Sept 2013, MaranaF-
A large complex wall overlooking Briancon with breathtaking views of the old town and the surrounding fortifications. South facing making for excellent multi pitch climbing in spring and autumn but a bit hot in the mid summer. In the middle of the face is a Via Ferrata, one of the first in the Briancon area. Several multi pitch routes work their way over the face, generally not very sustained and with sparse protection, take some light trad gear especially for the stances. Very satisfying climbing.
Approach notes
Start at the Champ de Mars car park, cross the road and look for the small road that leads up between two restaurants towards the rock face. At the top there is a small parking area. From there take the wide unmade track that goes up to the right. For the Via Ferrata follow the signs. For routes 1-3 also follow the Via Ferrata signs. for routes 4-6 stay on the wide path and where it turns to the left there is a smaller, steep path that continues straight on, follow that up to the Falaise de Salettes, left for routes 4 and 5 and right for route 6
Note the path to the Via Ferrata and routes 1 to 3 is steep and long, be ready for it!
Descent paths from the multi pitches can be difficult to find and will take around an hour to descend, make sure you leave plenty of daylight time for this.
There is a climb in the guide book with no name [route 2 in the guide i think with 3 sections the piece in the couloir being accesed from the first section that starts about 150m below it, ed] which starts from halfway up the couloir. DO NOT GO UP THE COULOIR TO IT!! [thats a bit strong - ed] There is an abseil descent to the start from the top. Worth taking a bit of trad gear for this one too - up to 15m between bolts and lots of loose rock.
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Climbs at this crag
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