Approach notes

From Moskvina Glade (BC) head South following a flagged trail through the morraine for ~1.5hr to reach ABC, characterised by a heli DZ and storage tent (usually placed there at beginning of season). From here, head down and cross the glacier aiming for the left side of the 'ramp' ('padushka', meaning 'pillow' in Russian). Leg it across as quickly as possible as the serac falls directly on to the path on a regular basis. Join the 'rocky-ridge' and follow this up to C1 on the rocks just before the snow. More pre-made platforms than one could hope for if you decide to use this camp. From here, join the Borodkin Spur and follow to the top of the 'Grudi' (breasts) at 6250m. There are several places to camp on the way up the spur if you need. Descend 300m to the Pamir Plateau. From the plateau join the blunt spur leading to Peak Dushanbe and slog it out. Again, there are many good camp spots along the way if needed. From the camp on Peak Dushanbe traverse along to the base of the summit wall via some pretty steep rollers (watch out for the bergschrunds at the bases) and tackle this directly, keeping to the right near the rocks. At the col, head right along the exposed summit ridge to the top. 

 

Descent: reverse the ascent, and have great fun reascending the Grudi...