Climbs 11
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 1020m a.s.l
Faces SW
Crag features
31.07.2023
11 Routes of 1 to 5 pitches. Good views of the Simmental. Solitude. Significant rockfall risk on at least some parts of the crag. Last part of the walk-in is a challenge. Surf pine-needle carpet on a mixed bed of earth and fine scree, among other delights (see approach notes).
Unfortunately the easier routes on the left hand side (Crossing to Sadi) are prone to rock fall in the following respects:
- the low angle and somewhat vegetaged ground has a lot of loose rock on ledges, some small, some fist sized, much more on the scree below than there was yesterday.
- some of the rock embedded in the slope is not firmly embedded, some of it is now on the scree below
- even more critically, the slope above the first three pictures is prone to release projectiles on a semi-regular if intermittent basis. The scree slope below grows.
Following a single vist the moderator cannot recommend climbing on these routes.
The next route to the right (Driving to Damascus) seems a bit more sheltered, but see description.
And the next route, Big Country 6b+ looks fantastic (and steep) on solid rock, but still some exposure to the projectiles-from-on-high at the starting belay (1st belay of Sadi)
The routes further right are on steeper ground, one might hope these are less exposed to rockfall, the moderator could not say for sure.
Information and Topo from one of the equippers here (also linked from other nearby crags on UKC):
https://www.mountainfokus.com/klettertopos/
Note the somewhat discreet mention near the end of "Steinschlaghelm erforderlich": Helmet necessary
Approach notes
400m ascent from the small layby at Brünnlisau 638m. This is 725m west of the motorway tunnel exit, if one is driving west on the motorway.
However, parking is only allowed in the small layby on Sundays. Paid parking is in a big lot a little further west, shortly after a turning on the south side of the road, adjacent to the shooting club. The shooting range targets are close to this approach, so if they are shooting one can rather use the forest road a little further west at Ausserlatterbach, same difference in the end.
The two approachs meet at point 721m, from there climb west on the forest road and turn right up a track shortly before a clearing is reached. Follow this steeply to another clearing with a hut, and continue up the steep meadow on a faint path. The path goes into woodland and shortly emerges again into another meadow after the second of two fence crossings. At the first opportunity turn right (approx 960-980m) and traverse the lower part of the meadow on reasonable paths and follow the path round and up when shortly a loose part of the fence can be crossed, onto rougher ground. Pass a small cave on the left (not on map) and reach a scree slope. Cross it with a little difficulty, onto even rougher and steeper ground (earth, scree, pine needle carpet, wood, snakes). Follow the right bank of the scree slope (looking up), with quite some difficulty, up to the rocks. Turning left then brings you to the climb 'Sadi'.
The crag is actually on the far left of the craggy-hillside area on the map that extends over a wide area, other internet sites may have it incorrectly positioned further east.
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Climbs at this crag
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