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Climbs 24
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 106m a.s.l
Faces W

Crag features

A band of featured sandstone running north-south through Torwood on the west side of Tappoch broch. The crag boasts numerous roofs and short walls, offering a pleasant selection of mid grade problems.

May require a few days of dry weather to come into condition after heavy rain but can be quite a suntrap for an afternoon's cragging. Top outs have been cleaned (spring 2023) and new climbs added by admin. Please do not remove any more material from topouts than strictly necessary!

A number of cleaned lines remain unclimbed and are to be considered open projects. Please see buttress info tabs for more details and add them to the page if you climb them.

Approach notes

10-15min approach.

Park considerately on Glen Rd. and follow the signposted side road for Tappoch Broch / Torwood Castle. After a hundred yards or so, a footpath leads off to the right across clear felled ground. Cross this and enter the woods ahead. Move uphill on a vague path, following signs for Tappoch Broch. At the head of the hill, skirt around the left side of the broch until a path leads steeply down towards open ground. A large tree with a rope swing is visible with a low outcrop of rock starting behind.

From here, head north along the low outcrop to reach the Reeky Roof/Fantavision area, or south to find the triple roofs of Teepee, Suntrap and Firewood.

An easier walk in is to park at the quarry entrance, enough for two cars, then up left of the quarry and up to the caves.
Nick_Scots - 19/Apr/24
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Climbs at this crag

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