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Climbs 5
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 283m a.s.l
Faces NW

Crag features

Below Bendy Upper the first crag with the burnt out ruins above. Lower Bendy is in the dry gorge just slightly east of the meeting of three waters. Bendy Upper has several routes with "Jim l' Fix It at XS 5b (Davy Gunn) on the furthest left (S) and Simmering Psycho XS 5c (Davy Gunn) up a corner with a peg runner on the right (N). In between are several E4's. Watch for brittle finger holds. Catches the morning sun but is a midge fest in the evening.

Lower Bendy/Leaning Wall catches the evening sun and although short routes its a pleasant venue. Routes right to left are "Crimp" up the edge on small wires for pro. Then the central groove is the well protected Sin Nombre at XS 5b . Finishing at the same point but with a start up the bolder blanker wall to the final groove is Ascoltare XS 5c. Left again is a now overgrown HVS 5b. All routes Davy Gunn

Further up is an obvious vertical crack at HVS 5b Davy Gunn and further still on the North side a good crag with an old route known as "The Squirrels Crack" which goes up over a bulge past an old peg then up to the top and is nice pitch at about VS 5a. Further routes have been done further up at the top of the dry gorge by various parties. The two routes at road level at the gorge are ok. The central crack at VS 4c if you dont mind lots of spectators and a bold E2 5c to its left up a thin crack with a stiff pull on high quality heather to join the above route.

 

Approach notes

Park at the AER "sandpit" which is the parking place 200m west before the cottage. Cross and walk on the other side of the crash barrier as the road is busy crossing the road bridge at the cottage. Follow the east edge of the stream down and cross the river and the crag is a couple of mins away up left in the gorge.

No Access Issues

None. Take care on the road

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