Approach notes

Taplejung - Gunsa - Lonak basecamp - from here leaving trailed area going north to a bend in the valley - continue North West until just before the mountain - climb the steep valley side to gain access to a glacier - climb up the glacier almost to its end - follow a slim gully up to a col - ascend traversing to the left below some rocks - climb these (dry tooling technique necessary) - continue up a steep ice couloir until the slope lessens for a while - you come to a terrace from where you se the summit only 150-200 meters above you - take the most obvious line a little to the rigth of the summit and turn left higher up after crossing a large bergsschrund - shortly after you reach the summit.