Climbs 16
Rocktype Granite
Faces SW
Crag features
Small south/south-west facing crag overlooking river Allier, 5 minutes from motorway A75. Exposed to afternoon sun. Bolted routes with chain belays, maximum height approximately 15m, most routes much shorter. The main slab face is clearly divided by a ledge about 4 metres up, after which the real difficulties start. Route grades from 3A to 7B, but most routes in the 5A-6A range. The small lower slab of the main face is mostly smearing, edging and balancing work, the upper face involving layback cracks, layaways. Getting off the ledge onto the upper tier is easier for tall climbers. Some loose rock at the very top. Most of the routes do not go to the top of the crag, with lower offs from the belay chains the norm.
Approach notes
From the south, leave the A75 motorway at junction 8 and follow the road towards Coudes town centre. At a mini-roundabout, cross straight over, leading into the small town center over a bridge (river Chambon). At the bend in the road in the town center in front of the Hotel de la Poste is a small square on the right, enter the square (Rue du Pont) and down towards the old bridge across the Allier, taking the left fork before the bridge to bring you down alongside the river. Turn left here and follow the road and the river downstream for approximately one kilometer. On your left you will see allotments. Once past the allotments, the road bends round to the right following a bend in the river. As the road pulls out of the bend, the crag will be on your left. Park opposite next to the river.
From the north, leave the A75 motorway at junction 7, then turn left at the junction towards Coudes. Follow the road down the hill into the town centre, and on reaching the bottom of the hill, follow the directions from the turn off at the Hotel de la Poste (which will be on your left) as you come round the bend right at the bottom of the hill.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
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