Crag features

There is a large expanse of rock and short cliffs on which short climbs can be had, and one large cliff 200 feet high, all facing Moody Valley. The large cliff is set at too easy an angle for good climbing except for at one place where it presents a series of large overlapping slabs, like the tiles of a roof, forming considerable overhangs. At the right hand edge of the overhang portion the edge of the slabs curl up vertically, forming in one place what is almost a V-shaped chimney going straight up quite steeply. This place alone seems to offer any hope of a route. An attempt has been made here but it was not pushed home. Further right still the cliff is well broken and covered in lichen and the only unavoidable difficulty is in the final overhang which is possible in at least one place. However, at the extreme right hand end of the main cliff (before it degenerates into separate broken buttresses) there is a firm steep mass of rock, up which runs a crack, lined with rusty red rock. The crack goes up over an overhanging corner and makes an interesting VD climb of about 100 feet. With the aid of pitons for protection, a number of good hard routes may be possible on the large overlapping slabs area.

However, ‘Tumbledown Mountain’ lives up to its name; the rock is loose and grotty. There is better and safer climbing on much better rock on the surrounding mountains. The ‘Cook House Rocks’, the lowest tear of outcrops facing north 50 meters below the Scot’s Guards 1982 Memorial Cross offers some climbs. In addition, the top tier of rocks above the ‘Cook House’ area gives some bouldering on steep wall, overhangs, and large boulders. The boulders give some hard traverse and powerful mantle-shelf problems. A ‘spotty’ wall just under the cross (left of a small spruce tree) is good. Approximately 80 meters west of the spruce three there is a steep buttress with an overhanging arete at the left hand end. This is where ‘Draught Guinness’ can be found.