UKC

Climbs 30
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 177m a.s.l
Faces E

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Marking at the base of The other side (Sol, Ibiza) © valentinesbabe

Crag features

Tricky to find but despite this it is worth the effort. Good rock. Grades from 4 to 7a with a couple of multi-pitch climbs. 

Approach notes

Ignore any access notes in the Desnivel guide or you'll waste days! Also the sectors Sol and Sombra are shown the wrong way round in this guide. Not sure how good the coordinates are as they are taken from the Desnivel guide.

The easiest way to the crag is to head to the Illa Blanca urbanisation. As you approach it you will see a stone bin enclosure on a left-hand bend with a road coming off. Take this road straight down (ignoring the chained off track to the right). It isn't in the best repair but is passable with careful driving. Continue down the road, past a half built hotel on the right (as at April 2015) and then an electric transformer building (windowless square building) on the left. There is parking offroad for a couple of cars on the right just before the houses start. From this parking take the track down with a fence on the right, it isn't that obvious but you will reach an intersection with a clear white path after 50-100m. Alternatively if you park on the road just past the transformer building there is access to an old carpark on the right and if you go through this you will reach the same white path.

Follow this to the left and after a while you will reach some ground slabs. There is a large block with some blue painted names on it (if you go over this to the right you will reach the top of sector Sombra) if you continue past this you will reach some rock trenches. You need to negotiate your way diagonally left from these. There is an obvious tree which has been struck by lightning and the access to Sol is to the left of this, maybe 200-300m. You need to be right at the edge to see the access rope and gully.

Access either by descending a thick white fixed rope around what I think is a thick rosemary bush or abseiling off one of the lower-off bolts at the top of the gully just before the rope. It does say in the guide that this rope has not been fixed by climbers and obviously use is at your own risk, although a local climber told us it has just recently been replaced.

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