UKC

Climbs 200
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 14m a.s.l
Faces all

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The main south face of L'ile de Primel at Primel Tregastel. © Alan James - UKC and UKH

Crag features

Mainly unique single pitch sport routes, some tidal, some not so. There is a load of quality bouldering yet again some tidal most is above springy grass. Your eyes go wild at the thought of outcrop style routes with just enough bolts to make saine, some of the mad trad route will make your palms sweet, especially Systeme 8a, sick.

Most of the belays are built so you can top out and belay (like what real climbers do?) or just bring a couple of slings to extend the bolts to make your own lower off.

Its worth having 40-50 metres of abb rope for the tidal routes and maybe a big wall style rope bag so as to keep your rope dry (most of the tidal routes start from a hanging belay just above the sea)

Approach notes

Most of the climbing is on a large headland 20mins east of roscoff, The none tidal routes are found first, but the one out on the island require a bit of planning/ cunning. There is a tidal gully to cross. This is an easy scramble 2 hours down from high tide, if caught out by the tide on the return there are some bolts you can abb of (60m rope needed), there are other bolts around to arrange a Tyrolean/ slack line.

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