Climbs 35
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 133m a.s.l
Faces S
Devil's Peak - Brian Boyd on the first ascent of The Unbearable Blankness of Being 6a © Brian Boyd Collection
to Japan’s invasion of Hong Kong (during World War II) and later became the site of intense fighting between the Rajputs (British Forces) and Japanese troops. Many of the fortifications remain around the top of the peak.
The area received sporadic interest from traditional climbers over many years however the lack of leader placed protection was in itself a natural barrier to any significant development. Circumstances changed in January 2007 when Nick Smith and Alain Boulanger conducted a comprehensive development of sport routes on the main and better slab. Francis Haden subsequently added further sport routes during 2012 and later Brian Boyd developed The Lost World. Francis Haden and Tony Wood added further routes closing out development in the process.
The Devil’s Peak sits directly above The Lost World with either sector approachable from the Wilson’s trail on the peak or from the valley trail below. However, The Devil’s Peak is best approached from The Wilson Trail and The Lost World from the valley trail below.
All bolts and fixed anchors were chopped during protest banner removal in 2020. The Lost World was re-bolted in 2022
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