UKC

Climbs 20
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 25m a.s.l
Faces S

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juara topo © jakobius

Crag features

A good sport crag in Juara with 20 routes ranging from 5 to 6c. Volcanic granite with good friction when dry - was largely wet after a storm the night before my visit.

Approach notes

The crag is at the north end of Juara beach - hike or get a 4x4 over the hill from Tekek. Walk along the beach and past the last buildings, cross a knee deep river to an apparently deserted camping ground [flat area that has been cleared of jungle] and head steeply up through the trees about 40m from the camp grounds western end. The path is obvious once you come across it. The crag is 5 mins into the jungle and you will soon spot it.

No Access Issues

The crag is at the north end of Juara beach - hike or get a 4x4 over the hill from Tekek. Access is through the Little Planet centre which is private. Please be respectful and ask to cross their land and permission- it should be given. For the students safety you might be escorted through the centre. Walk along the beach and past the last buildings, use the bridge to cross the river (alternatively you could wade the river....). From the left side of the leftmost building hike directly up the hill passing between two thin trees at the start. After about 50m at a well blazed (marked tree) turn right and hike gently rightwards up a recently cleared and blazed trail (June 2023) for about 10 mins to reach the foot of the cliff- it can be spotted from a distance.

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