UKC

Climbs 9
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 8m a.s.l
Faces W

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Tim Monks on High Time. One of a handful of high quality boulder problems on St Agnes, Scilly Isles © Tim M

Crag features

The island has one great little bouldering spot consisting of the west face of Pink Carn and the East Face of Beat Carn. Three are also several other good problems scattered along the south of the island.

Climbs at Pink and Beat are fairly high but with good landings. Beat Carn has problems at uk ~5b-5c with hard sit starts, and an unattractive but quality large roof/cave at ground level. Pink Carn has a superb high roof with perfect landing. Great value for a few hours if you're on a family trip to the island.

Also on St. Agnes is the Punch Bowel boulder in the centre of the island and another overhung boulder worth seeking out off to the left of the path from the Punch Bowl to Beady Pool. Another boulder with problems climbed 100m north west of Porth Askin.

A good collection of boulders discovered on Hoe Point at the southern end of Gugh. Several problems up to V3 climbed here and potential for more. Target boulder (marked on the tourist map) is particularly good with 5 problems climbed so far.

The island is wild and natural, so take it easy on the brushing. There's plenty to do without scrubbing the many hairy boulders clean.

Approach notes

5 minute walk from the St Agnes campsite. Walk south round the coast for 10 mins, just past the boulder beach with the artistic stone stacks.

Gugh accessible at mid to low tide across the sand bar - take care not to get cut off! Hoe Point 15 minutes from the Turk's Head pub.

No Access Issues

The Scillies are particularly important for migratory and nesting birds. There are no specific restritions on climbing but please see the CC guidebook for conservation advice.

loads of potential.. take a brush!!
Samuel Wainwright - 06/Aug/11
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Climbs at this crag

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