There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
A good slab with thin initial moves then a delicate section, which leads to the curving finishing flake. Spaced gear at the top. © Rockfax
FA. Fred Piggott et al. early 1920s.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , The Alf Bridge Challenge , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage Slab , Row & Tom's Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage HS Challenge
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
AndyClifford | 15 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The start is easier than High Neb Buttress and is 4C. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The start is easier than High Neb Buttress and is 4C. |
||||
Albie | 14 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Classic slab problem with tough technical moves | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Classic slab problem with tough technical moves |
||||
Albie | 14 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Classic slab problem with tough technical moves | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Classic slab problem with tough technical moves |
||||
Brian Mattock | 22 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: I can confirm the initial starting polish, but then brilliant, if thinly protected, climbing all the way. Crux is the start, but maintains a good standard throughout. Can't decide if two or three stars. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I can confirm the initial starting polish, but then brilliant, if thinly protected, climbing all the way. Crux is the start, but maintains a good standard throughout. Can't decide if two or three stars. |
||||
Paul Tomo | 6 Sep, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nice start to the climb all though a little polished and also a nice mid section as well, gear in the right places if you need it with a scramble to finish. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Nice start to the climb all though a little polished and also a nice mid section as well, gear in the right places if you need it with a scramble to finish. |
||||
Dale Berry | 3 Sep, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Easy enough for 5a, but could be a bit of a shock at HS if you haven't got your steady head on. Definitely worth taking the ropes for mind. There is a good friend after the initail crux section, for the still delicate middle bit. A pink Tricam protects the otherwise run-out, but much easier, end section. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Easy enough for 5a, but could be a bit of a shock at HS if you haven't got your steady head on. Definitely worth taking the ropes for mind. There is a good friend after the initail crux section, for the still delicate middle bit. A pink Tricam protects the otherwise run-out, but much easier, end section. |
||||
2RoyalAnglian | 7 May, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: tango buttress - a fantastic climb!! my 1st lead of the year after seconding up tango crack (vdiff) which resulted in mark anstey kissing the rock halfway up!?! bold and a confident approach is needed scott | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: tango buttress - a fantastic climb!! my 1st lead of the year after seconding up tango crack (vdiff) which resulted in mark anstey kissing the rock halfway up!?! bold and a confident approach is needed scott |
||||
Andy Hobson | 31 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Start is definately 5a - noticably harder than anything on High Neb Buttress - and the most useful foothold is very polished. May be something to do with scrabbling top ropers in boots. Otherwise nice. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Start is definately 5a - noticably harder than anything on High Neb Buttress - and the most useful foothold is very polished. May be something to do with scrabbling top ropers in boots. Otherwise nice. |
||||
Jonathan T | 13 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Didn't feel like 5a to me, especially not if you compare it to Norse Corner Climb which gets 5a in the Stanage guide and 4c in Rockfax. Felt about 4c. Soloed it, which menas it doesn't feel insecure! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Didn't feel like 5a to me, especially not if you compare it to Norse Corner Climb which gets 5a in the Stanage guide and 4c in Rockfax. Felt about 4c. Soloed it, which menas it doesn't feel insecure! |
||||
Mutl3y | 30 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Thought the gear was great. If you can get up the slab to the first (or is it second?) break, then you shouldn't have any problems with the rest as the grade eases. And you can bung a small friend under a flake for the last of the 4a moves before the grade really eases. Nice to practice difficult moves with little potential for injury. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Thought the gear was great. If you can get up the slab to the first (or is it second?) break, then you shouldn't have any problems with the rest as the grade eases. And you can bung a small friend under a flake for the last of the 4a moves before the grade really eases. Nice to practice difficult moves with little potential for injury. |
||||
Stuart S | 28 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very easy for the grade if you're tall. Good gear too - a friend to the left at the first decent break, and another on the right at the next. Lovely little route, but you'd have to be trying hard to deck out. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Very easy for the grade if you're tall. Good gear too - a friend to the left at the first decent break, and another on the right at the next. Lovely little route, but you'd have to be trying hard to deck out. |
||||
Chris Davids | 12 Aug, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Yet another fantastic HS, a solid 5a move off the ground and a bold middle section. The top section can be protected with a nut behind the flake. Shouldn't this climb get a little winged heart icon, it certainly felt like there was a potential for a big fall. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Yet another fantastic HS, a solid 5a move off the ground and a bold middle section. The top section can be protected with a nut behind the flake. Shouldn't this climb get a little winged heart icon, it certainly felt like there was a potential for a big fall. |
||||
Si dH | 9 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Did this as my first HS lead. First move was hardish and unprotected but I managed to get something soon after that, so the middle section was at least partly protected (I think!). Top less protected maybe but also easier once you're at the flake. Very nice route. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Did this as my first HS lead. First move was hardish and unprotected but I managed to get something soon after that, so the middle section was at least partly protected (I think!). Top less protected maybe but also easier once you're at the flake. Very nice route. |
||||
LakesWinter | 3 Sep, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Poorly protected higher up but very good climbing | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Poorly protected higher up but very good climbing |
||||
Simon Caldwell | 30 Mar, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: The first move off the ground is harder than anything on High Neb Buttress so 5a seems reasonable. Above this it would be about HS 4a due to lack of gear. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The first move off the ground is harder than anything on High Neb Buttress so 5a seems reasonable. Above this it would be about HS 4a due to lack of gear. |
||||
gav p | 15 Sep, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: The first smeary move to get off the ground to the first break is 5a. You must have been using the vdiff crack to the left if you thought 4a. It's all fairly easy above, however. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The first smeary move to get off the ground to the first break is 5a. You must have been using the vdiff crack to the left if you thought 4a. It's all fairly easy above, however. |
||||
bone | 14 Sep, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: nice climb but don't know where it gets a 5a grading? seemed more like 4a to me. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: nice climb but don't know where it gets a 5a grading? seemed more like 4a to me. |
||||
Nick Smith - Climbers | 8 Apr, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lovely climbing. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Lovely climbing. |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Bamford Edge)