UKH Hills - 'South Face (Berthet Variant)'

450m, 12 pitches. Climb two easy pitches to belays at start of Madier route. Climb up through tunnel to belay. Continue for half a pitch then head R up crack to belay. Continue (one pitch) to arete. Option to go further right to Boell route or climb two pitches of "7 D'Un Coup", which requires trad gear. Both lead to right-hand end of Boell ledge. Traverse ledge left and climb 5m down to belay on orange pillar. Climb couloir on left (easy) for 50m then step up and right to belay (55m pitch). Traverse right slightly downwards and climb chimney or blocks to belay below final tower. Many routes converge here and there are various ways to top. Traverse right for easiest line and follow arete. Or, stay left for choice of V (old pegs) or 6a (bolted) pitch to belay, then head up and right back to arete and belay. Easy until steep crack on left: climb to trad belay. Easy pitch to top.
Take a selection of nuts and cams unless you are very comfortable on pitches of V.

L. Berthet, Eymard Sep/1937.

Ticklists

Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!) , The Big Easys , Top quality Alps under 4000m

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User	Date		Notes
Annaproffitt	10 Aug, 2023	Show βeta βeta: The couloir pitch is longer than you think- ended up going around 50m up to a 2 piton belay on a nice ledge then back tracking slightly over flakes to the overhanging bludge pitch. It is possible to step around the arete from that pitches belay and go up the south face slab at around a 6a/6a+ with run out hard first moves.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The couloir pitch is longer than you think- ended up going around 50m up to a 2 piton belay on a nice ledge then back tracking slightly over flakes to the overhanging bludge pitch. It is possible to step around the arete from that pitches belay and go up the south face slab at around a 6a/6a+ with run out hard first moves.