Restricted Access
Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged! The routes affected are also pretty poor!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a seasonal restriction ".... due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face. As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’, ‘Horus’, and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".
The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT that they "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying".
No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st.
Rockfax Description
A great little climb with an exposed finale traversing above the cave. Begin up the steep wall that leads to the corner crack on the right side of the cave. Traverse boldly leftwards past a couple of old pegs that no longer inspire much confidence. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An exposed route. Climb into the cave and traverse rightwards to the first corner crack. Follow this to a recess, level with the top of the wall above the cave.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tall Oak | 11 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nice traverse. Reminded me of IDOWH in Angelsey(ish). Thank god we saw that we were heading up the wrong route and into E2 6a territory. Otherwise we would have needed Thunderbirds to the rescue. The cave, save for this route is polished more than Avon Gorge! This however is mega and great fun. Do not take the eastern side flank of Upper Jacky\'s Tor and around and then down. Better to follow the western flank and make it into the cave that way. We misread the approach and I nearly fell as the rock is loose as anything. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Nice traverse. Reminded me of IDOWH in Angelsey(ish). Thank god we saw that we were heading up the wrong route and into E2 6a territory. Otherwise we would have needed Thunderbirds to the rescue. The cave, save for this route is polished more than Avon Gorge! This however is mega and great fun. Do not take the eastern side flank of Upper Jacky's Tor and around and then down. Better to follow the western flank and make it into the cave that way. We misread the approach and I nearly fell as the rock is loose as anything. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Fall Bay to Mewslade
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Zig zag crack
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Craig Cwm)