15m. From the "missing block" on the right end of the big roof, the route follows the left edge and traverses a couple of meters around the corner on colossal holds and heelhooks. When reaching the next groove, the route goes straight up to the top. The start is a full-on comp dyno to the obvious large pocket above the second bolt. An easier variation is to start hanging from that bolt, and start the traverse from there, then the route is perhaps a grade easier, around 7a.

Technical info: the first bolt in the roof is simply there to assist in getting the first quickdraw in the second bolt (the one below the jug, to protect the jump). Unless you want monstrous ropedrag, it is recommended not to have the rope clipped into that bolt for the real go. Since even then, the ropedrag gets bad around the corner, it is recommended to extend the first four quickdraws considerably.

Sigurður Richter Jul/2022.

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