Restricted Access

The crag lies in an SSSI.  Natural England are happy for climbing to take place here provided that the following rules are respected:1) No gardening / vegetation removal.

2) Routes should be examined carefully for evidence of nesting birds before climbing.  Do not climb a route if there appear to be birds nesting nearby and retreat if nesting birds are inadvertently encountered.  Inform Natural England if Peregrine Falcons, Ring Ouzel or Merlin are encountered in the vicinity of the crag.  You can contact Natural England via the crag moderator on john.proctor1982@gmail.com - am happy to talk to Natural England on behalf of other climbers.

A voluntary agreement has been made that climbers should restrict their activities to the parts of this crag (and neighbouring Hangingstone scar) indicated in the linked photo:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411774

17m. Climb the crack to a brief respite then follow the prow directly to the top. Good gear all the way.

Phil Dawson and John Proctor.

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Grade: VS 4b ***
(Castle Rock of Triermain)

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