Restricted Access

No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag)  have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!

The land above the crag is now designated open access land.

Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid. 

There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully. 

25m. Start as for EE until the 3rd bolt. From here continue strait up the wall on side-pulls and undercuts leading slightly right and then back left via an ear of rock below the obvious undercuts at the base of a shield. Pull over and onto the shield into the exciting runout towards the final bolt of Painted Groove Direct. Finish out right up the engaging top out as for PGD. 8a+

James Taylor 03/May/2023.

Ticklists

Comprehensive E9+

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Route of Interest
Chicama

Grade: E9 6c ***
(Trearddur Bay)

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