Restricted Access
Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
From the start of DC fire straight up to the skanky old pegs passing some small wires and rps. Pull through the overlap with difficulty on the left side to gain jugs, then climb easier ground to the top as for DC.
Rachel Pearce & Tim Neil 21/Apr/2023.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| rachelpearce01 | 23 Apr, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: I placed as high gear as I could in the crack and then stepped down and left to reach the first peg directly underneath it. Tim thought you could carry more straight up the crack and reach first peg with a stretch out left. Watch out for big loose block on the right hand side of the overlap, you dont really need to use it and can avoid it pulling up and leftwards. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: I placed as high gear as I could in the crack and then stepped down and left to reach the first peg directly underneath it. Tim thought you could carry more straight up the crack and reach first peg with a stretch out left. Watch out for big loose block on the right hand side of the overlap, you dont really need to use it and can avoid it pulling up and leftwards. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
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Ci Ddu
Grade: E6 6a ***
(Moelwyn Bach)